A Surf Terry-torial
El Nino is living up to expectations, so let’s be optimistic and say its going to continue to be one of the best winters of recent lore. If so, we should be ready to seize the season.
Here is my suggestion for having your cake (and not eating it.) The foremost reason I advocate a low squatty stance in a critical situation is safety. As you can see when you are this low it’s hard to fall on your face; more likely you will fall on your butt. Preparation is everything. Learning this ”speed ball” style using your back hand and arm as a “ski pole” or ”leverage limb” gives you the pressure to withstand the force of the wall trying to mow you over. With my front arm pointed exactly where I want to go and my feet favoring my inside edge I can then gain speed, desired direction and control over my desired outcome.
Why do all this squatting, leaning and pointing? To repeat my favorite point, safety first. Secondly, this stance will allow you to ride waves (as illustrated in photo B and C) without getting your head ripped off and and ideally will lead to the best surf day of your life.
Feel free to email me if you have any questions, need technical advice or just to BS. And please come visit me in CA this winter, the surf has been non-stop.