The Big Five-O
This is not a birthday to take lightly or laying down. Go big, go hard, go all the way. For a surfer, it is a half-time celebration of the extraordinary life. Who else travels the world in search of watery walls that peel alongside the sandy shore? Who else spends days and nights contemplating their last wave? Or their last beating at the hands of mother ocean? What better way can you be connected to the tide, wind, water, and swells? Is there any other way you can be so fully part of nature?
Like the sea, water and wind, surfing pleasures are endless. So why not spend your most significant birthday doing what you love, with the people you love, at a place you love? It’s a way to acknowledge that time is passing faster and faster.
This last April/May there were two 50th birthdays for two special surfers, surrounded by their friends, in just such a place. For them and for me, Nihiwatu is the soulful place to express love and appreciation for family, friends and our lives as surfers. I was honored to be able to participate and facilitate both of these milestone events.
The surf during this spring was nothing short of Epic. Big solid glassy waves poured into the small funneled reef, vibrated up the staircase, and smashed into the bar, making an impact on everyone witnessing the full power of the Indian Ocean. Hair-raising at times, simply beautiful at others, the ocean made golden-lit sunsets to illuminate the smiling, vital faces glowing and connecting with each other wordlessly.
At first light we were greeted with another chance to become more than we were the day before. How glorious it is to surf and celebrate on this island the day we were labored into this world.
The after hours theme parties, night after night, bore resemblance to religious events. People entered a fantasy and became dream-like. A true spirituality was in the air as people became anything thing they wanted to be. Dancing under the moon and stars with all the people you love, in the place you love most, is what the Big Five-O should and can be for you too. Do it while you can.
I want to thank everyone who was involved in making these past six weeks some of the most memorable of my life. A huge thank you to Nihwatu and the incredible staff who pulled everything together. And of course, a huge thank you to my trusted clients, who put their faith in me to help guide them into some mind blowing waves and life altering moments.